According to the Rigveda, The temple at Somnath saw the creation of the universe. Today, the temple stands in its seventh incarnation. The first one disappeared before records were kept. Junayad of Sind razed the second in 725. Following a dream, Madmud Ghazni destroyed the third in 1024. The Delhi Sultanate took out the fourth and fifth temples in 1297 and 1394. Aurangzeb the Mughal raided the sixth in 1706. At each moment of destruction, someone was there to rebuild on the old ashes.
This could be the perfect metaphor for India...at least coming from a student who has never traveled to the country, whose ethnic background is thoroughly European, and until two weeks ago thought that ghats were a type of insect. Nonetheless it seems (well...the guidebooks, film, and new articles tell me) that India is a constant work in progress, a cycle of destruction and reconstruction that is central to its definition--the Hindustani concept of reincarnation. Steeped in heavy tradition, yet still searching for its role in this globalized world, a solution to its crippling poverty (almost cleverly juxtaposed with the beneficiaries of the recent IT boom), and a political structure that can effectively represent a subcontinent of over twenty mother tongues, four major religions, and countless special interests, India is always sitting around and asking itself, "Where to begin?"
But as of right now, all I have is second-hand information: my preconceptions. Tonight I'm sitting at my kitchen table in St. Louis, Missouri. Beside my laptop is a creased copy of Lonely Planet and a headset used for my now-daily Hindi lessons. Upstairs, my packing list is thrown across the floor beside my backpack. All of this and I'm still half a world away from where I will be in just nine days. I'm still proudly using the adjective "prepared" knowing full well that in stepping off the plane in Mumbai, that word will fly away into oblivion, dissipating in the bustle of India's largest city.
So, where to begin?
Right now: the planning. With our final destination in Ahmedabad, Becky and I will arrive in Bangalore on May 20. Then, we begin a two week jaunt up the coast, picking up a friend (Nick) along the way. The train will drop us off in Ahmedabad on June 1, where two more friends (Marc and Catherine) will join. From there, two whole months in Ahmedabad. Beyond that, God knows. I'll be back in St. Louis on August 14 with an older age and most certainly a new psychological disorder or strange bacterial diarrhea to blame on the whirlwind of India.
Now: the blog. I'll try my best to post at least once a week, but there may be moments with little internet and even less free time. There will be a flood of pictures that will most likely be put on a flickr account that I will link from this blog. Also, be sure to check out the other blogs from my fellow travelers, as well as other Robertsons who are traversing the globe this summer. Loads of links to come.
Here's an overview of the next few weeks, between Bangalore and Ahmedabad:
18-19 May: Flight from Lambert In'tl with stops at Newark, Frankfurt, and Mumbai.
20 May: Arrive early morning in Bangalore. Meet up with Becky and explore.
21 May: Morning train to Mysore. Palaces and markets.
22 May: Overnight train to Hampi, ruined capital of the Vijayanagar by way of Hubli and Hospet (Day of the Hs)
23-24 May: Explore Hampi, reminisce on the days we had air conditioning.
25 May: Train ride to the warm beaches of Goa.
26-27 May: Nick will fly in. Soak in the sun.
28 May: Night train to Mumbai.
29 May: 24-hour Mumbai marathon.
30 May: Train to Nasik. Temple hunting.
31 May: Taxi to the coast: Daman. Train journey to Ahmedabad.
Thank you to everyone past and future for your advice! See you on the other side.
